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Friday, January 30, 2026

11 Jan 2026 - Labrador Nature Reserve and Berlayer Creek Boardwalk

After a busy month last December when we went on a short trip to Kemaman and a family trip to Taiwan, we resumed our weekly Sunday morning walk. Today, we visited Labrador Nature Reserve where the forest trail also connects to Berlayer Creek Boardwalk.
We parked our car at Car Park A and a nearby white building immediately caught our attention. We went up to take a look and found that it was closed. A quick check on the internet showed that this was Labrador House, which used to be a restaurant but had just closed its door permanently on 31 Dec 2025.
Labrador Nature Reserve is a thick slice of history served with a side of rugged coastal beauty. It is the only place on mainland Singapore where you can stand on a natural rocky sea cliff, looking out over the same waters that pirates and colonial explorers navigated centuries ago. Walking through Labrador is like walking through a deconstructed museum. It was one of the three main coastal defense batteries built by the British in the 19th century (alongside Fort Siloso and Fort Connaught).
Soon we arrived at a historical tunnel system, but the gate was locked. It is a network of tunnels that were used to store ammunition and provide shelter for the gunners.
As we entered the Coastal Secondary Forest, we noticed the air was cooler, shaded by a dense canopy. 
Then we arrived at a remnant of the massive gun emplacements overlooking the sea. These 6-Inch Quick-Firing Guns were meant to stop a naval invasion. There is a famous statue of British soldiers loading a gun to give you a sense of the scale. We heard of a myth that Singapore fell because the guns were pointed out to sea while the Japanese came from the land. At Labrador, this is only half true in that the guns could rotate 360 degrees, but they were supplied primarily with armor-piercing shells (for ships) rather than high-explosive shells (for infantry).
Next, hidden behind heavy steel doors and stone walls are the Casemates. These were essentially underground rooms used to store ammunition. These bunkers were designed to be "flash-proof." If a shell hit the outside, the internal design prevented the explosion from reaching the gunpowder stores.
We exited Fort Pasir Panjang through The Wall of the Brick Cutting. It's the remains of the old fort, built around 1886, with stone-faced sea wall over 6-foot high but the portcullis or vertical iron gate had long been dismantled.
We proceeded to stroll along the Labrador Promenade, 
The gentle sea breeze, panoramic coastal views, and peaceful ambiance make it an ideal spot for a leisurely walk.
Located at a quiet corner stood The Obelisk, which marks the boundary of the old British harbor.
Next to the obelisk is a machine gun post who still stands still after all these years. It shows how soldiers stand guard inside the post to protect Singapore from enemy attack.
A few steps away from the gun post is The Red Beacon (aka The Berlayer Point Lighthouse), which is a functioning navigational aid. This is also a great spot for sunset photos.
Near the entrance to the coastal path, we saw a large, jagged red stone structure. While this is a replica, its history dates back over 700 years.
In the 14th century, two massive rock outcrops stood at the entrance to Keppel Harbour, looking like the tusks of a dragon. Ancient mariners, including the famous Chinese explorer Zheng He and the chronicler Wang Dayuan, used these rocks as a navigational landmark to enter the "Dragon’s Tooth Strait."  In 1848, the British blew up the original rocks to widen the shipping channel for larger steamships. The replica you see today was installed in 2005 to commemorate Zheng He’s voyages.
At the start of the Broadway that connects Labrador Park to Harbour Front via Bukit Chermin Boardwalk, we saw a family of long tailed macaques sitting on the boardwalk suntanning.
We walked to the end of the boardwalk and returned for the Berlayer Creek Boardwalk.
The name Berlayer is derived from the Malay word Layar (to sail). Historically, this creek was a vital waterway for small boats navigating the coast. This is one of the few remaining mangrove habitats in the south of Singapore, covering about 5.6 hectares. It serves as a critical "bio-filter," trapping sediments and preventing coastal erosion.
Before the MRT station and the manicured boardwalk existed, this was an area of traditional kampungs (villages). The creek was much wider and served as a natural gateway for local fishermen.
At one point, we saw a white cockatoo on a tree.
Overall, it was a nice morning walk. Labrador isn't just a park. It's a testament to Singapore’s resilience, both environmental and historical. It’s where the sea meets the jungle, and the past meets the present.

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